Discover Meghalaya
A first look at Meghalaya — the hill station of Shillong, the waterfalls and standing stones of the Jaintia Hills, the river at Dawki and the clean village of Mawlynnong, and the falls and caves of Cherrapunji.
Meghalaya, ‘the abode of clouds’, gets more rain than almost anywhere on earth. It is a land of plateaus and hills, with streams that turn into torrents in the monsoon, and home to the Khasi, Garo and Jaintia peoples. The Khasi are matrilineal: the youngest daughter inherits the family property, and children take their mother’s name. The trip starts in Shillong, the old British hill station called the Scotland of the East, with its lakes, waterfalls, lively markets and a strong love of rock music. From there you head east into the Jaintia Hills around Jowai, past waterfalls and the ancient standing stones of Nartiang. Then south to the turquoise Umngot River at Dawki and on to Mawlynnong, often called the cleanest village in Asia, where the villagers grow flowers everywhere and the plains of Bangladesh spread out below. The last stop is Cherrapunji, where the rain has carved the land into gorges, waterfalls and caves.
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At a Glance
Shillong
The old British hill station known as the Scotland of the East.
Village Life
A night with a Khasi family in Mawlynnong, one of the cleanest villages in Asia.
Waterfalls and Root Bridges
The falls, caves and living root bridges of Cherrapunji.
Day by Day
Guwahati - Shillong
Arrive at Guwahati airport and drive to Shillong (3 hours), the capital of Meghalaya and once the capital of the whole region under the British. On the way, stop at Umiam Lake, ringed by pine forest, for the views or a boat ride. Check in at your hotel in Shillong.
Guwahati - Shillong
Arrive at Guwahati airport and drive to Shillong (3 hours), the capital of Meghalaya and once the capital of the whole region under the British. On the way, stop at Umiam Lake, ringed by pine forest, for the views or a boat ride. Check in at your hotel in Shillong.
Shillong
A day in town: Lady Hydari Park, Ward’s Lake and the old churches, and the Don Bosco Museum for the cultures of Northeast India. Then Shillong Peak, the highest point in the Khasi Hills, and Elephant Falls. If time allows, watch Siat Khnam, the local archery betting game. Evening in Police Bazaar for handicrafts and souvenirs.
Shillong
A day in town: Lady Hydari Park, Ward’s Lake and the old churches, and the Don Bosco Museum for the cultures of Northeast India. Then Shillong Peak, the highest point in the Khasi Hills, and Elephant Falls. If time allows, watch Siat Khnam, the local archery betting game. Evening in Police Bazaar for handicrafts and souvenirs.
Shillong - Jowai
A slow breakfast, then drive east into the Jaintia Hills to Jowai. On the way, stop at Thwei Lyngksiar Falls and Tyrshi Falls, and at Nartiang, where the old Jaintia kings raised one of the largest groups of standing stones in the region, next to the old Durga temple of the Jaintia royal family. You stay at a quiet retreat in the countryside outside Jowai.
Shillong - Jowai
A slow breakfast, then drive east into the Jaintia Hills to Jowai. On the way, stop at Thwei Lyngksiar Falls and Tyrshi Falls, and at Nartiang, where the old Jaintia kings raised one of the largest groups of standing stones in the region, next to the old Durga temple of the Jaintia royal family. You stay at a quiet retreat in the countryside outside Jowai.
Jowai - Dawki - Mawlynnong
Drive south toward the Bangladesh border, stopping at Phe Phe Falls and for a swim below Krang Suri, one of the prettiest waterfalls in Meghalaya. At Dawki, take a country boat on the clear turquoise Umngot River, then continue to Mawlynnong (1 hour), often called the cleanest village in Asia. You stay in a family-run homestay.
Jowai - Dawki - Mawlynnong
Drive south toward the Bangladesh border, stopping at Phe Phe Falls and for a swim below Krang Suri, one of the prettiest waterfalls in Meghalaya. At Dawki, take a country boat on the clear turquoise Umngot River, then continue to Mawlynnong (1 hour), often called the cleanest village in Asia. You stay in a family-run homestay.
Mawlynnong - Cherrapunji
A morning in Mawlynnong: walk the village and its flower-lined lanes, see the balancing rock, the view over the Bangladesh plains from the Skywalk, and the living root bridge at nearby Riwai. After lunch, drive to Cherrapunji (2 hours), known historically as Sohra, the land of oranges.
Mawlynnong - Cherrapunji
A morning in Mawlynnong: walk the village and its flower-lined lanes, see the balancing rock, the view over the Bangladesh plains from the Skywalk, and the living root bridge at nearby Riwai. After lunch, drive to Cherrapunji (2 hours), known historically as Sohra, the land of oranges.
Cherrapunji
Two days on the Cherrapunji plateau, one of the wettest places on earth. See the Seven Sisters, Dainthlen and Nohkalikai falls, the Mawsmai cave and the Ka Khoh Ramhah monolith, and the viewpoints over the gorges. Swim in the natural pools at Wei Sawdong and other quieter falls, and spend an afternoon at Thangkharang Park looking out over Bangladesh. Evenings at leisure, with a bonfire if you like.
Cherrapunji
Two days on the Cherrapunji plateau, one of the wettest places on earth. See the Seven Sisters, Dainthlen and Nohkalikai falls, the Mawsmai cave and the Ka Khoh Ramhah monolith, and the viewpoints over the gorges. Swim in the natural pools at Wei Sawdong and other quieter falls, and spend an afternoon at Thangkharang Park looking out over Bangladesh. Evenings at leisure, with a bonfire if you like.
Cherrapunji - Guwahati
After breakfast, transfer to Guwahati airport (5 hours) for your flight. End of tour.
Cherrapunji - Guwahati
After breakfast, transfer to Guwahati airport (5 hours) for your flight. End of tour.
Your Retreats
01The Heritage Club — Tripura Castle
The only heritage property of its kind in Shillong, built as a retreat for the royal family of Tripura and still run in that spirit. Half-timbered cottages sit in wooded gardens above the town, with period rooms, open fires, and tables laid outside when the weather allows.
“Garden tables under the pines, on the first evening.”
02Haven’s Cove
A quiet retreat at Syntu Ksiar, about 5 km outside Jowai, beside a stream in open farmland. You leave the car at the road and walk the last 15 minutes while the staff carry your bags. Rooms are clean and comfortable, the meals are home-cooked, and there are nature trails, fishing spots and a bonfire in the evening. There is no phone network at the property.
“The car stays behind, and the last stretch is a walk across the paddy fields.”
03West Corner Homestay
A family homestay at the west end of Mawlynnong, a few minutes’ walk from the old parking lot, built from bamboo and wood with some concrete. It is an independent unit — one room sleeping three or four, with its own bathroom. Marcelos and his family host, and breakfast is served in the garden. The Riwai living root bridge is a mile or so away, and Dawki about an hour.
“Breakfast in the garden, and a village that sweeps itself.”
04Sa-I-Mika Park
Sixty-nine acres of hillside at Wahshari, Khliehshnong, on the Sohra plateau. Most of its twenty-two rooms are individual cottages built in local Khasi style, with a restaurant and a bonfire most nights.
“Dinner by the bonfire, and the highest star density in the region overhead.”
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