Trek to the Beyul of Pemako

Ages and centuries ago, hidden texts were discovered throughout Tibet describing beyul, hidden lands where the preaching of Buddhist Tantras would be preserved for future generations. It was eighth-century adept magician Padmasambhava, known as Guru Rinpoche, who hid these scriptures deep in the valleys of the Himalayas, meant to be found by only those who had a vision. Beyuls are paradises on earth which can be reached by overtaking hardship. Pilgrims, who travel to these distant out-worldly places in the heart of the Himalayas, often tell tales of undergoing extraordinary experiences, similar to those encountered by beings who choose the Buddhist path to liberation.

The most renowned and mystical of all the hidden-lands is Beyul Pemako, “the hidden land the shape of a lotus”, a celestial realm on earth. Many pilgrims have journeyed here in search of inner wisdom, not to escape the world, but to enter it more deeply, and become aware of secrets of the mind and spirit. With good intentions and merit, a pilgrim in Pemako learns to see the world differently than what appears, bringing him closer to the virtues of wisdom and compassion. It is believed that it is in Pemako that humanity will survive and thrive at the end of the world.

Pemako is the earthly form of Dorje Pagmo, the queen of all dakinis (female spirits). Her head is the Kangri Karpo, her two breasts are the peaks of Namcha Barwa and Gyala Pelri. The lower part of her body lies in Yangsang or innermost Pemako, which is the upper Siang Valley of Arunachal Pradesh. In the confluence of Siang River and Yangsang, is the sacred triangle of Kila Yangzom considered as the vulva of Goddess Dorje Pagmo. The region is home to various different tribes such as Mishmi, Adi, Memba & Khampa; all of them existing in complete peace and harmony with nature, their culture and in their lifestyles.

Since ages, each year pilgrims come to the area for kora – circumambulation of the sacred sites of Devakota (the gathering place of dakinis), Titapori Mountain, Eko Dumbing (Riu Tala), Pemashree and Danakosha Lake. It takes a strenuous trek of four days to reach the Titapori Mountain at 14,000 ft, where the landscape forms a beautiful fully opened lotus. In the mythical lake of Danakosha, there is the Citta Island, ‘The heart of the world’. According to ancient Tibetan scrolls describing Pemako, upon merely seeing this place, a pilgrim’s vision and knowledge will be liberated from all obstructions, and all negative karma accumulated over a thousand eons will be forgiven and purified. Here, you will find breathtaking views of the Eastern Himalayas. Visible up-north will be Namcha Barwa peak and Kundu Dorsempotrang (mythical palace of Dorje Sempa). On the south Eko Dumbing ranges will be visible and on the west, Pemashree.

The trek will pass through hauntingly impressive forests which are a treasure trove of flora and fauna. Medicinal, aromatic plants and endangered flowers can be found in this region. A rhododendron paradise, 44 new species were discovered as recently as 2005. Possible wildlife sightings can be of Gorals, Takin, Musk Deer, Snow Leopards and Tigers. Tribal hunters, mainly from the Adi Tribe, visit the region annually to collect aconite poison and offer their prayers to the protector spirits of the mountain.