Trek to the Beyul of Pemako
A hard, once-in-a-lifetime trek into the Beyul of Pemako — the hidden land in the shape of a lotus — for pilgrims, explorers, adventurers and naturalists.
This trek goes into Beyul Pemako, ‘the hidden land in the shape of a lotus,’ the most sacred place in Tibetan Buddhism and a destination for pilgrims in search of wisdom. According to the old Tibetan texts, the eighth-century master Padmasambhava hid spiritual teachings in the valleys of the Himalaya, to be found by those worthy of them. Pemako is the earthly body of Dorje Pagmo, one of the principal female deities of Tibetan Buddhism — “her head is the Kangri Karpo, her two breasts are the peaks of Namcha Barwa and Gyala Pelri.” The region takes in the upper Siang valley, home to the Mishmi, Adi, Memba and Khampa, who live closely with the land. Every year pilgrims walk the kora, the sacred circuit, around Devakota, Titapori mountain, Eko Dumbing, Pemashree and Danakosha lake. A hard four-day climb reaches Titapori at 14,000 feet, where the landscape opens out like a lotus in full flower. Danakosha holds Citta island, believed to be the spiritual center of the earth; the texts say that merely seeing it frees a pilgrim’s mind of every obstruction and purifies the karma of a thousand eons. The route crosses forest full of medicinal plants and forty-four species of rhododendron recorded here in 2005. With luck you may see goral, takin, musk deer, snow leopard or tiger. This is a genuinely demanding expedition — ten days beyond the last village, nights in tents, and high passes — and it is built for people who want exactly that.
Traveling with Greener Pastures means hassle-free, insightful journeys in the hands of passionate experts. All our naturalist guides are from the region and have deep knowledge of the local wildlife, terrain, and communities. Every tour can be tailored to your interests and fitness level.
At a Glance
The kora of Pemako
The sacred circuit through Titapori at 14,000 feet and the heart lake of Danakosha, the most holy ground in Tibetan Buddhism.
Ten days beyond the last village
From Kuging to Tashigang there is no village at all — rhododendron forest, alpine lakes and campsites along the ridges.
Adi, Memba and Khampa
Adi villages and cane bridges on the way in, and the Buddhist hamlets of Tashigang and Payengdam on the way out.
Day by Day
Dibrugarh - Pasighat
Arrive at Dibrugarh airport and drive to Pasighat (2-3 hours) through beautiful Assamese countryside.
Dibrugarh - Pasighat
Arrive at Dibrugarh airport and drive to Pasighat (2-3 hours) through beautiful Assamese countryside.
Pasighat - Jengging
Drive to Jengging (7 hours, 2,690 feet). The roads are rough, but the Siang valley is worth every mile of them. On the way, visit an Adi village and walk its bamboo hanging bridges. Overnight in a basic hotel or government guesthouse.
Pasighat - Jengging
Drive to Jengging (7 hours, 2,690 feet). The roads are rough, but the Siang valley is worth every mile of them. On the way, visit an Adi village and walk its bamboo hanging bridges. Overnight in a basic hotel or government guesthouse.
Jengging - Tuting
Drive through unspoiled country to Tuting (9 hours, 1,943 feet), the last town the road reaches, close to India’s border with Tibet. Overnight in a basic hotel or government guesthouse.
Jengging - Tuting
Drive through unspoiled country to Tuting (9 hours, 1,943 feet), the last town the road reaches, close to India’s border with Tibet. Overnight in a basic hotel or government guesthouse.
Tuting - Kuging
Start walking to Kuging (2,786 feet, 5 hours), crossing the Siang on a suspension bridge and passing through small Adi villages, terraced fields and the Yangsang Chu river before the climb up to Kuging — the last village you will see for ten days. Overnight in tents near the village.
Tuting - Kuging
Start walking to Kuging (2,786 feet, 5 hours), crossing the Siang on a suspension bridge and passing through small Adi villages, terraced fields and the Yangsang Chu river before the climb up to Kuging — the last village you will see for ten days. Overnight in tents near the village.
Kuging - Mabi
Trek to Mabi (7,205 feet, 6 hours). The forest changes from tropical to subtropical and eventually alpine. The climb is moderate, through rhododendron and pine, though you need to watch for leeches. On clear days the snow peaks of Namcha Barwa are visible — the left breast of the goddess Dorje Pagmo. Overnight in tents.
Kuging - Mabi
Trek to Mabi (7,205 feet, 6 hours). The forest changes from tropical to subtropical and eventually alpine. The climb is moderate, through rhododendron and pine, though you need to watch for leeches. On clear days the snow peaks of Namcha Barwa are visible — the left breast of the goddess Dorje Pagmo. Overnight in tents.
Mabi - Lama Tukut
A short walk to Lama Tukut, with a few climbs along ridges through rhododendron forest like something out of a fairy tale, and wide views across the remote eastern Himalaya into Tibet. Overnight in tents.
Mabi - Lama Tukut
A short walk to Lama Tukut, with a few climbs along ridges through rhododendron forest like something out of a fairy tale, and wide views across the remote eastern Himalaya into Tibet. Overnight in tents.
Lama Tukut - Kanebenga
Trek to the Kanebenga campsite (10,795 feet, 5 hours), mostly along ridges through rhododendron and pine, with the ground turning bare and rocky higher up. Villages on the Chinese side can be seen from here, and the mountains all around are breathtaking. Overnight in tents.
Lama Tukut - Kanebenga
Trek to the Kanebenga campsite (10,795 feet, 5 hours), mostly along ridges through rhododendron and pine, with the ground turning bare and rocky higher up. Villages on the Chinese side can be seen from here, and the mountains all around are breathtaking. Overnight in tents.
Kanebenga - Pao Lipik
Trek to Pao Lipik (11,959 feet, 6 hours), leaving the alpine forest behind for bare country full of high lakes. The walk is moderate, but the altitude makes it tiring. On clear days Namcha Barwa is in view. Overnight in tents.
Kanebenga - Pao Lipik
Trek to Pao Lipik (11,959 feet, 6 hours), leaving the alpine forest behind for bare country full of high lakes. The walk is moderate, but the altitude makes it tiring. On clear days Namcha Barwa is in view. Overnight in tents.
Pao Lipik
A rest day to acclimatize before the high section.
Pao Lipik
A rest day to acclimatize before the high section.
Pao Lipik - Danakosha
Trek to Danakosha (13,123 feet, 5 hours), the sacred lake with the island of the heart. The trail crosses a bare ridge of rhododendron scrub before a steep climb to a higher ridge with magnificent views of holy Titapori, where the land opens out like a lotus. Every year Buddhist pilgrims come to these isolated ranges to pray at the heart lake; the Pemako texts say that just seeing it opens a pilgrim’s mind and purifies their karma. Overnight at a beautiful campsite.
Pao Lipik - Danakosha
Trek to Danakosha (13,123 feet, 5 hours), the sacred lake with the island of the heart. The trail crosses a bare ridge of rhododendron scrub before a steep climb to a higher ridge with magnificent views of holy Titapori, where the land opens out like a lotus. Every year Buddhist pilgrims come to these isolated ranges to pray at the heart lake; the Pemako texts say that just seeing it opens a pilgrim’s mind and purifies their karma. Overnight at a beautiful campsite.
Danakosha
Walk the kora around five of the sacred lakes of Danakosha, out of the 118 believed to lie in this region, and said to bestow tantric powers. On a clear day you can see Kundu Dorsempotrang, the ‘all-gathering palace of Vajrasattva,’ the deity of pure, unobstructed awareness — and seeing it is said to liberate you on the spot.
Danakosha
Walk the kora around five of the sacred lakes of Danakosha, out of the 118 believed to lie in this region, and said to bestow tantric powers. On a clear day you can see Kundu Dorsempotrang, the ‘all-gathering palace of Vajrasattva,’ the deity of pure, unobstructed awareness — and seeing it is said to liberate you on the spot.
Danakosha - Wangchen Phukpa
Trek to Wangchen Phukpa (13,225 feet, 7 hours), up and down ridges and across Titapori, where Padmasambhava is believed to have hidden many treasures and scrolls. At the campsite you feel on top of the world. The area is rich in wildlife — musk deer, ibex, takin, mountain goat, red panda and many birds — and a tailless rat the locals call assaray is common. Overnight in tents.
Danakosha - Wangchen Phukpa
Trek to Wangchen Phukpa (13,225 feet, 7 hours), up and down ridges and across Titapori, where Padmasambhava is believed to have hidden many treasures and scrolls. At the campsite you feel on top of the world. The area is rich in wildlife — musk deer, ibex, takin, mountain goat, red panda and many birds — and a tailless rat the locals call assaray is common. Overnight in tents.
Wangchen Phukpa
A rest day on the roof of the trek.
Wangchen Phukpa
A rest day on the roof of the trek.
Wangchen Phukpa - Dungchen Droma
Trek to Dungchen Droma (12,500 feet, 3 hours), across huge boulders brought down by snow, then through pine and rhododendron, finishing on a downhill trail thick with bamboo. On clear days the views across the eastern Himalaya are magnificent. Overnight in tents.
Wangchen Phukpa - Dungchen Droma
Trek to Dungchen Droma (12,500 feet, 3 hours), across huge boulders brought down by snow, then through pine and rhododendron, finishing on a downhill trail thick with bamboo. On clear days the views across the eastern Himalaya are magnificent. Overnight in tents.
Dungchen Droma - Tashi Droma
Start early for a long, steep descent to Tashi Droma (8 hours) through forest full of orchids, bamboo and wildflowers. The growth is thick and the ground wet and slippery, so take care. The day ends at the Jiang-chu river, crossed by a cane bridge to reach camp — and a swim in the river is highly recommended. Overnight in tents.
Dungchen Droma - Tashi Droma
Start early for a long, steep descent to Tashi Droma (8 hours) through forest full of orchids, bamboo and wildflowers. The growth is thick and the ground wet and slippery, so take care. The day ends at the Jiang-chu river, crossed by a cane bridge to reach camp — and a swim in the river is highly recommended. Overnight in tents.
Tashi Droma - Tashigang
Trek to Tashigang (3,771 feet, 4 hours), the first village in ten days, following the Jiang-chu on slippery ground with moderate climbs and descents. Watch for leeches. Tashigang is a lovely little village of about two hundred people in sixteen houses. Overnight in tents.
Tashi Droma - Tashigang
Trek to Tashigang (3,771 feet, 4 hours), the first village in ten days, following the Jiang-chu on slippery ground with moderate climbs and descents. Watch for leeches. Tashigang is a lovely little village of about two hundred people in sixteen houses. Overnight in tents.
Tashigang
A rest day in the village.
Tashigang
A rest day in the village.
Tashigang - Dewakota
Start with the holy site of Dewakota and walk its kora. Legend says Padmasambhava hid treasures and scrolls in Dewakota mountain, and that the enlightened hold the key to finding them. The trail drops steeply through huge rocks, crosses a cane bridge and climbs steps to the Dewakota temple. After the kora, walk on to the village of Mankota. Overnight in tents.
Tashigang - Dewakota
Start with the holy site of Dewakota and walk its kora. Legend says Padmasambhava hid treasures and scrolls in Dewakota mountain, and that the enlightened hold the key to finding them. The trail drops steeply through huge rocks, crosses a cane bridge and climbs steps to the Dewakota temple. After the kora, walk on to the village of Mankota. Overnight in tents.
Dewakota - Payengdam
Trek to Payengdam (4,017 feet, 5 hours), a hilltop village with excellent views of the ranges, on a gradual trail with ordinary climbs. As well as a monastery, the village has an impressive community center for refugees from the Chinese-held part of Pemako. Overnight in tents.
Dewakota - Payengdam
Trek to Payengdam (4,017 feet, 5 hours), a hilltop village with excellent views of the ranges, on a gradual trail with ordinary climbs. As well as a monastery, the village has an impressive community center for refugees from the Chinese-held part of Pemako. Overnight in tents.
Payengdam - Tuting
Walk back down to Tuting alongside the Yangsang river, steeply through tropical forest, until the trail meets the one you took on the first day — completing the kora. The trek ends at Tuting, with a night in the government guesthouse.
Payengdam - Tuting
Walk back down to Tuting alongside the Yangsang river, steeply through tropical forest, until the trail meets the one you took on the first day — completing the kora. The trek ends at Tuting, with a night in the government guesthouse.
Tuting - Jengging
Drive from Tuting to Jengging (7 hours). Overnight in the government guesthouse.
Tuting - Jengging
Drive from Tuting to Jengging (7 hours). Overnight in the government guesthouse.
Jengging - Pasighat
Drive from Jengging to Pasighat (7-8 hours). Overnight at a budget hotel or guesthouse.
Jengging - Pasighat
Drive from Jengging to Pasighat (7-8 hours). Overnight at a budget hotel or guesthouse.
Pasighat - Dibrugarh
Drive to Dibrugarh airport for your flight home. End of tour.
Pasighat - Dibrugarh
Drive to Dibrugarh airport for your flight home. End of tour.
Your Retreats
01Donyi Hango Camps
Run by the Dai family, early promoters of tourism in Arunachal Pradesh. The campsite is comfortable, with clean, spacious tents, and Mrs. Dai — a formidable Adi woman in her own right — is always happy to have travelers from around the world. It is the best option in Pasighat.
“Mrs. Dai has been hosting travelers here longer than most.”
02Trek Campsites
Beyond Kuging there are no villages and no buildings, so the trek runs on tents — pitched each evening by the crew at campsites in the forest, along the ridges and beside the high lakes, with meals cooked over the fire. Government guesthouses at Jengging and Tuting cover the nights on the road either side.
“Ten nights under canvas, from rhododendron forest to the edge of the sacred lakes.”
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